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Pearl Treatments

After harvest pearls are always processed in one way or another. Akoya and freshwater pearls are routinely bleached, and all pearls are cleaned and polished before sale. But there are treatments that should be noted on cultured pearls that change the aesthetic qualities of the gem.

After cleaning a polishing a low-quality cultured pearl, and if the pearl does still not have a good luster or color, the farmer is left with few options. He can sell the pearl at a steep discount, dispose of the pearl, peel the nacre to be sold and reuse the nucleus, or impose a treatment to the pearl that will change its appearance. If the pearl is a good candidate for treatment, this is the most common and economically sensible approach for the farmer. There are three main treatments that low-quality pearls undergo:

  • Dyeing - The use of silver nitrate to darken the nacre of the pearl.
  • Irradiation - The use of gamma rays to darken the nucleus of the pearl in akoya pearls and the nacre layers in freshwater.
  • Luster treatments - Typically a coating treatment placed on the surface of the pearl to artificially enhance the luster.

Silver nitrate has been used for many decades to darken the appearance of pearls. The chemical penetrates the layers of nacre and has a chemical reaction with light or hydrogen sulfide gas to create a rich black color. If the farmer wishes to create colors other than black he may also use organic or inorganic dyes to produce another color variation. This is a very popular treatment done to freshwater pearls as the lower values give farmers more opportunity to experiment. Akoya pearls are also routinely "pinked" to enhance a more desirable rose overtone.

Irradiation has differing effects from freshwater to saltwater cultured pearls. The gamma rays do not affect the nacre layers of a saltwater cultured pearl, but in fact darken the nucleus of the pearl. An irradiated saltwater pearl appears to be gray or blue. The nacre of freshwater irradiated pearls, on the other hand, if affected by the gamma rays and can become very dark. Some of these freshwater treated pearls will also have an intense metallic sheen and iridescent orient over their surface.

Coating a pearl to enhance its luster is not widely practiced and is greatly frowned upon. This coating is equivalent to a coat of clear nail polish. Although the luster may appear to be fine, the coating may eventually chip or peel, leaving a low-luster pearl visible beneath the surface. This is a treatment to watch for as dishonest pearl dealers have passed these pearls on to unsuspecting consumers in the past.

Although nearly all pearls on the market today have been treated in some way, it can be difficult to detect pearls treated to change color. One method of detecting dyed or irradiated pearls is to check the matching of the strand. A strand of natural color pearls will typically vary slightly from pearl to pearl. A perfectly consistent strand may be evidence of treatment.

By peering down the drill hole of a dyed pearl one may also be able to see concentrations of color. This residue is left from the dying process. When looking down the drill hole of an irradiated pearl one may be able to detect a darkened nucleus. This is strong evidence of gamma-ray treatment.

Luster treatments are much harder to spot. The most basic method, however, is to compare an untreated strand with the suspect strand under at least 50X magnification. The untreated pearl will have a scaly nacre surface. The coated pearl will have a smooth, glass-like surface.

... read more on Pearls in Myth

Information obtained from www.Pearl-Guide.com

 

 

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